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Category: For the Cook

Review: Make the Bread, Buy the Butter by Jennifer Reese

[ 8 ] November 14, 2011

Reviewed by Jen Kulman

A few years ago, Jennifer Reese wrote an article that analyzed the cost effectiveness of making six different pantry staples versus buying them. I loved that she tried her hand at making cream cheese and wrote an honest account, thereby saving me the trouble. I thought her comparison idea was a really great one, and so thrilled to find that she expounded on that idea and wrote an entire book devoted to the premise. Which foods should you cook from scratch, and which are you better off buying? Thanks to this exhaustive research project – we can make our own informed decisions with fewer headaches.

Frequently, I buy a convenience food or pantry staple, and think to myself “It would be so much cheaper and healthier if I would just make this at home.” Exactly how much cheaper would it really be and how much work and time will that entail? Reese lays out the answers so neatly. The header of each recipe addresses three important points. A make or buy it determination, the amount of hassle involved, and a cost comparison of the two. I love how you can tell with just a glance how each item stacks up. Definitely make your own caramel corn, guacamole, cornbread, lemonade, and whipped cream, as the improved taste is well worth your efforts and you’ll save money to boot. Try your hand at making your own onion rings, doughnuts, bacon, and eggnog if you are a person who enjoys a challenge and cleaning up the kitchen. Buy goat’s milk, duck prosciutto, pot stickers, and honey, as the hassle-ometer is off the charts.

The variety of foods she tries her hand at is staggering. Reese does some amazing things, such as buying live turkeys for roasting, keeping bees for honey, and buying a chunk of raw fish to make her own sashimi. Certainly her initial idea was interesting, but it is her follow-through, presentation and writing that elevates the book to fabulous! Some of the recipes contain a simple paragraph outlining her experiences, while the more involved (such as killing chickens or making your own hot dogs) take up a few pages. Several of the stories had me laughing out loud. Hands down, the funniest, most entertaining cookbook I own.

Reese made foods at home that I would never dream of replicating, but she also provides recipes that are definitely in my future. I adore her chapter on cheeses and will absolutely take a stab at making my own Marscapone, and possibly the Burrata. You will never convince me that a homemade pickle can touch a Claussen, but I believe in granola fresh from the oven and homemade apple pies are worth every peel. Even if you know in your heart you will never whip up your own mayonnaise or snatch a warm egg from a chicken, it sure is fun to read about another person’s wild kitchen experiments, particularly when the stories are told as humorously as these.

Read an interview with Jennifer Reese about writing Make the Bread, Buy the Butter, or check out her blog The Tipsy Baker, summarized as “One woman cooks through her collection of 1000 cookbooks and feeds the results to her family.”

Rating: 5/5

Jen lives in Michigan with her husband and six year old son. She writes reviews of children’s books on her blog, FIRR-Kids and loves filling her own shelves with cookbooks.

Review copy was provided free of any obligation by Get Red PR. No monetary or any other form of compensation was received.

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Review: Complete Book of Knife Skills by Jeffrey Elliot & James DeWan

[ 7 ] August 14, 2011

Reviewed by Jen Kulman

I have always considered myself to be fairly competent with my knives in the kitchen. At least, that’s what I thought, until I was faced with exactly how little I actually know about knives and kitchen techniques. The Complete Book of Knife Skills is a compilation of a truly amazing amount of information. This is an excellent guide that really will help you become more knowledgeable and skilled with your knives.

The first chapter, titled “Everything You Need to Know About Knives” is a basic primer that I found invaluable. Here, you will learn how knives are put together, differentiate the different parts of a knife, understand the various blade styles and their intended use. Best of all is the section on types of knives, which includes a photo of each type and a detailed explanation. I have always felt overwhelmed by the types of knives available and never confident about buying the knives I need, without spending too much. I also enjoyed the explanations (with photos) on the proper ways to hone and sharpen your knives. Chapter two is equally useful, demonstrating basic knife safety measures, and how to hold a chef’s knife, as well as explaining other knife grips.

The next eight chapters focus on how to cut specific foods, separated by food type. Learn how to make basic vegetable cuts, plus how to peel, pit, and slice some of the trickier fruits. What make this book so wonderful are the number of quality photographs that accompany each step. The instructions on coring a pineapple contains five action photos so that you are absolutely sure you’re on track. The poultry and meat chapters give directions on boning and slicing all sorts of large, raw meats. I’ll admit I flipped through these as quickly as possible – I would never make it as a butcher. Similarly, the fish and shellfish chapters give directions on scaling and filleting fish and preparing seafood. The last chapter is how to make creative garnishes: create fluted mushroom caps, strawberry fans or apple swans to add decorative flair to your dishes.

Overall, Complete Book of Knife Skills is just an incredibly helpful book for the kitchen. The spiral binding allows you to lay the book out flat and follow along step by step. Tons of photos make it easy to attempt a recipe that you may have shied away from in the past. Good knife skills really add to the presentation value of your dishes and will increase your confidence in the kitchen!

Rating: 4/5

Jen lives in Michigan with her husband and six year old son. She writes reviews of children’s books on her blog, FIRR-Kids and loves filling her own shelves with cookbooks.

Review copy was provided free of any obligation by The Lisa Ekus Group. No monetary or any other form of compensation was received.

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Review: Bread Making by Lauren Chattman

[ 10 ] July 21, 2011

Reviewed by Jen Kulman

For people who are interested in learning to bake bread, trying to learn directly from a book can be intimidating. The intricate directions and multiple steps in some of the artisan bread books are enough to make my head spin. This book is designed with the beginning breadmaker in mind. Lauren Chattman breaks down the process to remove doubts and firmly squash all fear, so you’ll get the perfect loaf every time. 

Bread Making is divided into nine chapters in two manageable parts. Part One is Getting Started and Part Two is Techniques and Recipes. Seems pretty simple, right? Take your time learning Ingredients, Equipment, and The Basic Steps (chapters 1 -3) in Part One and you will have absorbed everything you need to know to tackle the recipes. One thing that sets this book apart from others is the Questions and Answers segment that follows each chapter. It is reassuring to see the common problems that can crop up and helpful to see what the solutions are.

I loved that her breads were simple, but far from boring. Frequently, it seems that bread books will offer several recipes that actually turn out to be one dough that is shaped in many different ways. It is exciting to discover the doughs here are very different from each other. Cheddar Cheese Boule is a big round loaf studded with cumin seeds and bits of melted cheddar. To make the Rustic Flax Seed Rolls, you actually have to soak the flax seeds overnight so they can absorb the water. After reading about the health benefits of flax, I have been trying to work it into our diet more, and this is the perfect way.

For deeper flavors, the next two chapters offer recipes that rely on extra fermentation. Chattman provides Foolproof Sourdough Starter and day-by-day directions on keeping it alive. She describes creating your own starter as intensely satisfying, which really makes me want to try it. She clinched that by revealing that once your starter is well established, it is difficult to kill. If you aren’t up for that level of commitment, try a yeasted pre-ferment, which boosts flavor with less time. You can then make Sunflower Seed Bread and Ciabatta.

Bread Making is an excellent introduction to the world of bread. I thoroughly enjoyed reading her explanation on the processes. Chattman truly believes that with a little experience, breads from a domestic kitchen can be every bit as good as those from a bakery. And this is the perfect book to help you gain that experience! For a book, I think this is the closest you will come to having an experienced breadmaker hold your hand while you try new bread recipes. It is helpful, knowledgeable and encouraging.

Rating: 4/5

Jen lives in Michigan with her husband and six year old son. She writes reviews of children’s books on her blog, FIRR-Kids and loves filling her own shelves with cookbooks.

Review copy was provided free of any obligation by Storey Publishing. No monetary or any other form of compensation was received.

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Review: The Original King Arthur Flour Cookbook

[ 2 ] July 7, 2011

Reviewed by Jen Kulman

King Arthur Flour is well known in the world of baking for their specialty flours and grains, but I love them just as much for their fabulous cookbooks. This special commemorative edition celebrates the company’s 200th anniversary as “purveyors of the finest flour in the world” and gives a nod to all of us who appreciate those products. I think the inscription on the first page “Dedicated to the Pure Joy of Baking for 200 Years” shows that this company really understands the heart of a baker. I love that!

This definitely is not a fancy, high-end cookbook. There are not glossy photos of finished products, but rather hand drawn illustrations scattered about on the pages. Although I do love the slick cookbooks, there’s plenty to love here too. The writing is so down to earth – drastically different from any other cookbook I own. It feels as though someone is patiently explaining the intricacies of baking to me in the most understanding way. They know that yeast can be scary, that we are sometimes running short on time, that we fear a fallen cake, or lament that our pie crusts aren’t as flaky as our grandmothers’ were. As a result, there is a ton of great advice offered on exactly these topics and more. King Arthur intuitively knows exactly where a baker might falter, and offers tips accordingly.

The Original King Arthur Flour Cookbook is an all purpose baking book, with every type of baked good imaginable presented, split into ten chapters. You could literally bake your way from morning to night, starting with pancakes and waffles and ending with a sampler of small pastries. Each chapter begins with a basic primer of that particular type of baked good. These explanations are really fascinating, as they are written from a different view – that of a flour purveyor. These people sure know their ingredients and the effect they have on the finished products. For example, pie crusts are explained in terms of flakeage, with recipes provided for short flake crusts, medium flake crusts and long flake pastry. My favorite was the Sourdough chapter, which thoroughly explains the fermentation process and the different ways to create sourdough starter.

Another distinctive quality of The Original King Arthur Flour Cookbook is that some of the recipes have been in the company for years, while others have been contributed by staff members, customers or business associates. I like reading the little background to each recipe – it makes me feel like I’m getting a tiny story with my scones. Try Brown Bag Banana Bars, a recipe sent in with a customer’s order, or Norwegian Cookies, originally devised in Norway but currently being made in Chicago. I have my eye on Doris Sands’ Oatmeal Crispies (all those grandkids can’t be wrong) and Bert’s Buttermilk Biscuits, made by King Arthur retiree Bert, who bakes just for fun.

So, whatever your areas of hesitation in baking may be, you’ll find the solutions here. Let King Arthur show you the way to flakier pies, fluffier biscuits and cookies that will make the neighbor kids’ knees buckle.

Rating: 4.5/5

Jen lives in Michigan with her husband and six year old son. She writes reviews of children’s books on her blog, FIRR-Kids and loves filling her own shelves with cookbooks.

Review copy was provided free of any obligation by Countryman Press. No monetary or any other form of compensation was received.

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Review: 500 Mediterranean Dishes by Valentia Sforza

[ 4 ] July 2, 2011

Reviewed by Poppy Johnson

500 Mediterranean Dishes, a chunky half book, is no slouch. If the readers are unfamiliar with Mediterranean food, they will be encouraged to try some of these recipes at the first opportunity. The Lebanese Red Lentil Soup or the Gazpacho are amazingly simple dishes that anyone can try with ease.

The foods of the region are full of flavor with simple spices such as onion and cumin, or fresh herbs such as cilantro and fennel. There are easy recipes, with full color photos of finished dishes throughout. For example, the Baked Stuffed Baby Squid on a bed of fennel is made with some unfamiliar ingredients (chorizo) and some familiar ingredients (fennel bulbs, feta or goat cheese) for an amazing combination. Each recipe is described in easy to read language, with suggested side dishes and possible variations on the pages following the recipe.

The foods typical of this region are good for your health and body, with little red meat, high in vegetables, fruits and whole grains. The author of 500 Mediterranean Dishes point out that there is no one Mediterranean diet, since the region is made up of 21 countries all with their own unique takes on traditional and standard foods.

500 Mediterranean Dishes is small enough to fit into a bag to read at the doctor’s office or to take with you to the beach house for vacation. I would highly recommend getting this book to spice up your weekly family menus or just to try something new and experience food from a different culture.

Rating: 5/5

After a decade of working in several NYC law departments and teaching, Poppy decided she enjoyed writing full-time. She currently works as a freelance writing consultant, and lives with her husband and sons on the East Coast.

Review and giveaway copies were provided free of any obligation by Sellers Publishing. No monetary or any other form of compensation was received.

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Review: Doughnuts by Lara Ferroni

[ 5 ] June 26, 2011

Reviewed by Jen Kulman

I can vouch for the accuracy of the title. These doughnuts are simple to make at home and quite delicious. Don’t let the slim volume fool you, there are a surprising number of recipes tucked inside. Worried about deep frying? Try the baked recipe. Afraid of using yeast? Plenty of non-raising varieties to choose from. Not a chocolate fan? Opt for Carrot Cake, Red Velvet, or Chai. Recipes are even provided for vegan and gluten-free diets. There are doughnuts for everyone’s taste here!

The first chapter is split into two parts: dough and glazes. Select your dough recipe and then decide which sweet concoction will be gracing the top. I am of the opinion that an occasional deep fried food never hurt anyone, and seeing that Basic Raised was the first recipe of the book, it seemed only right to start there. The directions were clear and the dough was a snap to throw together in the mixer. The dough needs to be refrigerated for the one long rise, which is flexible – at least one hour up to twelve. I made mine up at night, so that it was ready to go in the morning. It turns out that deep frying doughnuts at home is not a formidable nor overly messy project. The only downside is that my kitchen smelled like grease for the better part of two days, but I don’t hold that against the book. The whole process went smoothly and the results were well worth my efforts.

My confidence boosted by mastering Basic Raised, I happily delved into Chapter 2: Flavors. This is the real genius part of Doughnuts - Lara Ferroni has done a terrific job creating some interesting varieties! With photos for most of these recipes, it is a struggle to decide which to make. The description for Apple Pie reads “Part doughnut, part fried pie, these doughnuts are all apple-y goodness.” I like apple-y goodness. Or would it better to try something more exotic, like Margarita or Maple Bacon Bars?

Doughnuts is the perfect book if you have ever considered making these treats at home. You can go from basic glazed all the way to Chocolate Coconut Macaroon Doughnut Holes with ease. I tend to think that doughnuts are not something that everyone makes at home, which is part of the appeal. This is the book that will make you the person known for amazing homemade doughnuts.

Rating: 5/5

Jen lives in Michigan with her husband and six year old son. She writes reviews of children’s books on her blog, FIRR-Kids and loves filling her own shelves with cookbooks.

Review copy was provided free of any obligation by Sasquatch Books. No monetary or any other form of compensation was received.

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Review: The Entrees by Gail Monaghan

[ 12 ] May 21, 2011

Reviewed by Jen Kulman

The Entrees is a very sophisticated cookbook. It’s quite a bit more upscale than my cooking, but I couldn’t bear to give it a poor review just because it’s over my culinary head. In the foreword, it is referred to as a “magnificent tome” which struck me as the perfect description. The Entrees is a collection of recipes from legendary chefs and restaurants, when food was served with a flourish, and calorie count was not a concern. To borrow a phrase from the book: this is the essences of old time gastronomy. These are definitely dishes that take a bit of planning and time, but would yield impressive results and certainly be worth your efforts.

Although I will probably not make many dishes from The Entrees, I still admire the book as a whole. It is well thought out and beautifully put together. Gail Monaghan carefully selected dishes that made her feel as though she was stepping back in time. Her criteria were threefold: the dish had to be delicious, contain no wildly expensive ingredients, and could be made in a home kitchen. The 75 selected recipes are organized by these chapters: Fish and Shellfish; Chicken, Duck, Guinea Hen, Pheasant, Turkey, and Rabbit; Beef, Veal, Lamb, and Pork; and Omelettes, Main Course Salads, Pasta and Polenta.

The dishes here are elegant and old school. Coulibiac of Salmon Colette is described as a Russian pie filled with fish, vegetables, rice and hard-boiled eggs, with the pastry crust carefully shaped and designed to resemble a whole fish. Braised Rabbit is a spiced stew that, given a chance, could convert you to love rabbit as more than just a fuzzy yard-dweller. There are less exotic dishes as well, including Beef Wellington, Steak Diane, and Chicken Tetazzini.

I adore Gail’s introduction to each recipe, and as a result, this is a bit like a cross between cooking instructions and a history lesson. These are fascinating, personal glimpses into history, like Diamond Jim’s Brady’s obsession with obtaining the Sole Marguery recipe, or Julia Child’s practical tips on preparing Navarin of Lamb. The Entrees is the cookbook that can keep you entertained for hours, and significantly raise your level of cooking. If you enjoy creating culinary masterpieces, this is most certainly the right cookbook for you.

Rating: 4/5

Jen lives in Michigan with her husband and six year old son. She writes reviews of children’s books on her blog, FIRR-Kids and loves filling her own shelves with cookbooks.

Review copy was provided free of any obligation by Rizzoli Publications. No monetary or any other form of compensation was received.

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Review: Sarabeth’s Bakery by Sarabeth Levine

[ 7 ] April 14, 2011

Reviewed by Jen Kulman

Swoon. That’s how you’ll feel holding Sarabeth’s Bakery in your hands. My gosh, there isn’t one aspect of this book that isn’t stunning. The size (lovely ten inch square pages) and heft (four pounds) of the book alone whisper that this one is special. Reading the introduction is like beginning a novel you just know will be riveting, after only digesting the first two paragraphs. The photographs are nothing short of perfection, and the directions are incredibly detailed. But the very best of all, in my opinion, is the writing that prefaces each chapter and accompanies the recipes. Yes, the secrets to some of the most amazing baked goods and techniques are being passed from her hands to ours, but the writing feels as though it is straight from her heart.

My first choice was Apple Cinnamon Loaf, a yeast based dough studded with cinnamon and fresh apples. The dough was made quickly in my stand mixer, stretched into a large rectangle and spread with a mixture of sweetened, chopped apples before being rolled up into a log – quite like making cinnamon buns. This recipe (and many others) calls for an interesting rise method – place the dough on a baking sheet inside a regular kitchen trash bag. Insert a glass of hot water, closing the bag tightly, but catching enough air inside the bag so that the dough won’t touch the plastic as it rises. This method was new to me, but it worked beautifully.

The recipe steps are clear cut and wonderful. After I rolled up my dough, it states to cut the log into one inch slices, then further into one inch squares. Sarabeth writes “It will look like quite a mess, but you’re doing the right thing.” Those are exactly the sort of directions I treasure in a cookbook, that much needed assurance that I’m not mucking it up. She was right, it was a mess raw, but once baked, the loaves were beautiful, a twisted design of fluffy bread interspersed with a sweet, spicy apple mix. Two loaves of goodness with only a half stick of butter and 3 tablespoons of sugar. It was a bit of kitchen magic, I tell you!

Truly, Sarabeth’s Bakery is an absolute gem! It is impossible to list all the recipes that I wanted to try, but I do know the Chocolate Chubbies, her signature Pumpkin Muffins, and Margaret’s Espresso Cake will be made here before month’s end. Please consider treating yourself or a baker friend to this – you won’t be sorry. If I were forced to choose only a handful of cookbooks to keep, this would most definitely make the cut. Sarabeth has produced a stunning book that will help you shine in your own kitchen.

Rating: 5/5

Check out the Sarabeth’s Kitchen website for some sample recipes

Jen lives in Michigan with her husband and six year old son. She writes reviews of children’s books on her blog, FIRR-Kids and loves filling her own shelves with cookbooks.

Review and giveaway copies are provided free of any obligation by Rizzoli Publications. No monetary or any other form of compensation was received.

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